Thursday, April 27, 2006

The New Teacher

In my position, living in a village, I tend to focus on the discrimination encountered in this country. Often I see the “good schools” being attended by a primary population of white children with primarily white educators. These are the schools with computers, with extracurricular activities, with resources in general. When I see these schools it demonstrates the gross inequity the majority of my schools face in comparison: not enough classrooms, lack of well trained teachers, not enough desks, books, paper, pencils, toilets, etc. It is seeing these differences that effectively creates a sort of bitterness for me. I see the children being educated in town schools continuously gaining ground while my students slip farther and farther behind on the continuum.

Seeing this, combined with the reactions I receive regarding the work I do, tend to give me a negative opinion regarding race issues in this country. My experience in diversity can be summed up in the following statement I received from a white man: “Well, if you ever feel the need to get away from the village and be with white people give me a call.” I often categorize “the whites” as still having an ultimate aim of oppressing “the blacks.” It seems that many of them long for their so called glory days of apartheid. Perhaps the majority of the older white community, growing up with the ability to “be above” blacks, now assumes themselves superior and knows no other way to act. Likewise, I was in a used bookstore in Pretoria while on vacation talking to the owner who happened to be an elderly Caucasian man:

“I often find it hard to find books in this country. There are few bookstores anywhere I go. In Tzaneen the only place I can buy books is CNA the stationary shop that has a very limited selection with nothing that I would call quality literature. Plus it’s all very expensive.”
“That’s why a used bookstore is so great. Most of the time you only read a book once so why would you pay 150 rand for it (a little more than 20 dollars)? Here you can buy a book for 20-40 rand (3-7 dollars) and then sell it back to us for 50% of that after.”
“It’s a shame there aren’t more used bookstores around.”
“Well, I hate to say this, but it’s true, there used to be bookstores everywhere before apartheid ended but after they all disappeared.”
“Why is that?”
“As soon as black people move into the neighborhood the bookshop is the first thing to go.”
“Do you think it’s like that everywhere in the country?”
“No, it’s different in Cape Town. Cape Town is a very unique place for all of culture and learning.

This man seemingly made the statement that the majority of black people don’t read which is why there is no real market for book selling in South Africa. From living in the village, I see it as one more anecdote of apartheid. It’s not that people aren’t interested in books. On the contrary, children often stop by my house to ask to borrow the children books I have in my room. Most of the younger ones can’t read English but they still enjoy looking at the pictures and spending time with the books. Yet, the problem remains that I am the only supplier of books to them. Their schools don’t have libraries. Their families don’t have books. Their nearest town has no bookstore and even if it did they wouldn’t be able to afford the books being sold. After all, I can’t afford the books being sold and I live on a greater income than most families in my village. Consequently, children grow up without books and without learning how to use them and enjoy them. Thus as adults they don’t patronize bookstores. It’s not that black people don’t like to read as the elderly gentleman was insisting, it’s simply that they live in a culture and predicament that doesn’t encourage them or give rise to the availability of books such as in America or European countries.

Hearing this man’s argument for why bookstores fail is one more notch on my totem pole discerning why there is so much discrepancies between the black and white community. Often there are misconceptions on both sides: whites are all rich, blacks are uneducated, whites care more about the education of their children, blacks just aren’t as intellectually inclined. The vicious cycle continues and the students in the village are the ones that suffer as teachers complain that they can’t teach adequately for lack of materials and whites complain that blacks are lazy towards improvement.

In turn, I have become increasing bitter against the white population. Often blaming many of my frustrations on them and I increasingly wonder bitterly why they don’t try to improve their own country, clean up their own mess. I never see Caucasians from the city coming out to help improve rural communities; they wouldn’t be caught dead. As a result, after a lot of initial suspect, I found the following news from the principal of Matshwi shocking:

“We are hiring a new deputy principal (vice principal). I am hoping that the white woman we interviewed will accept.”
(Here is my turn to pause and adjust my hearing.)
“You had a white woman apply for the post?”
“Yes she’s very good too. She currently teaches at a school on the way to Giyani.”
“Is it a former Model C school? (Former Model C schools are schools for white children under apartheid. They tend to be the best schools with the most infrastructure and resources. Most teachers dream of working at one of these schools)
“Yes. It’s a school that 80% of the students are white and there is only one black teacher.”
(My suspicion is beginning to boil over. Why would this woman leave her cushy job to become a village teacher?)
“Why does she want to work here?”
“She thinks that we should be promoting the new democracy. She wants to help stop the inequality of the schools and work to improve village schools so they are on the same level and give the children an equal chance.”
“Really…” (Now, this is a major reason for being here as well as most of the other Peace Corp Volunteers but I have practically never heard of a South African determined to progress on this same continuum. It’s nothing short of shocking. I have never heard of a white teach in a village school and between all of the volunteers, we work at a lot of village schools. It seems everyone is as shocked as I am. This is a huge novelty. It would be comparable to a child going to an acclaimed private school suddenly switching into an inner city school. Very few people here will understand the decision and thinking behind it.)

As a result to this very shocking news on some level I’m inspired. Perhaps some people in this country do in fact care about the progression of their country in all realms. Perhaps not everyone is tinged with racist views and attitudes and there are people who genuinely desire students to progress. For one person to step out of their comfort zone and to make a commitment to improvement is something I rarely witness in South Africa.

My only concern is that if this woman does turn out to be a power house for the school it may perpetuate the cycle of “we can’t do this on our own. We need outsiders to step in and help us. The white people will fix it for us.” Likewise, this is a concern I have about my participation in schools. When I leave will progress become stagnant because the white girl is gone and we can’t accomplish anything without the white girl?

I will continue to struggle with this idea of racial lines and expectations for the remainder of my service.

Friday, April 21, 2006

Pictures from Vacation










Omar and I suited up and ready to go















Shadows in the sand on the beach in Durban















Flying!!
















Tightening the straps

















Omar's landing and Mike coming out of the sky





The plane

Busy

I have decided that as a white American living in the village I have the identity of a celebrity and not of that of an actual person. Since I have this status people who don’t know me feel free to comment and criticize me all the while expecting me to be nice to them and conform to their ideals on how I should act.

Case in point, I was walking and met a group of teenage girls. I politely greeted them and started to go on my way home. Instead one of the more robust ones interrupts me: “You are getting very fat,” all the while using her arms to emphasize, “You need to exercise more.” Then they all walked away laughing.

In return, I wanted to scream, to hurl insults back at her, but in my situation I can’t do that. I have to constantly be in an utter state of decorum or I could possibly lose the credibility I have gained in which to accomplish everything I hope to accomplish. So I walked silently homeward feeling very bad about myself and understanding how being a celebrity in the lime light could drive a person to anorexia and plastic surgery.

Celebrity

I have decided that as a white American living in the village I have the identity of a celebrity and not of that of an actual person. Since I have this status people who don’t know me feel free to comment and criticize me all the while expecting me to be nice to them and conform to their ideals on how I should act.

Case in point, I was walking and met a group of teenage girls. I politely greeted them and started to go on my way home. Instead one of the more robust ones interrupts me: “You are getting very fat,” all the while using her arms to emphasize, “You need to exercise more.” Then they all walked away laughing.

In return, I wanted to scream, to hurl insults back at her, but in my situation I can’t do that. I have to constantly be in an utter state of decorum or I could possibly lose the credibility I have gained in which to accomplish everything I hope to accomplish. So I walked silently homeward feeling very bad about myself and understanding how being a celebrity in the lime light could drive a person to anorexia and plastic surgery.

The Little Mermaid

Sometimes I think I might be the little mermaid. I’m “flipping my fins” in the village the majority of the time: biding my time as I conform to societal pressures: you wear this now, you greet like this, you always smile, you always are there to assist people, keeping a schedule that suits other people better than yourself. It becomes confining as I dream to break away to be myself. I want to be able to openly be annoyed with things and to share my opinions even if they aren’t popular.

Then, on vacation or when I’m with other volunteers in general, I get my legs. Suddenly I can run: have bad days, feel free to misbehave, laugh openly, tell stories and have people understand them, and not always have to be nice.

After two weeks of vacation, swimming was incredibly difficult again. On my taxi ride home I almost felt like I was suffocating. I had been ill the previous day but now I had to put a smile of my face in order to greet everyone in my village. I was exhausted from traveling and wanted to rest but the children were all outside my door knocking every few minutes to borrow games, books, sports equipment. I suppose I had forgotten what it felt like to be stared at constantly. My over annoyance has driven me to hide out more than is normal. For example, last night I was eating dinner outside and there were four kids staring at me and three asking to play with my soccer ball. All I wanted was 10 minutes to be able to finish my meal before the world started demanding things from me again.

Perhaps, going on vacation for such long periods of times is not such a good idea. It made me realize all of the things I desperately miss: staying out late, anonymity, luxuries such as grocery stores and showers, and not having to answer to other people constantly. I suppose I just need a week or two to readjust to life as a mermaid. Sigh…

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Injury



While in Durban I tripped on a box and fell into a tree trunk. As a result I severely gashed open my knee. In the real world I would have definitely needed stitches. I learned that being a PCV makes that easier in theory than in practice. By the time I could actually get to a clinic it had been two days and the Peace Corp doctor told me to long to get stitches so the idea was ditched. Thus, I’m expecting a nasty scar. These are pictures I took of it two days after it happened and it had started healing. When you see this please realize that here it looks a lot better than it did.

Saturday, April 15, 2006

Flying

"Look over your left shoulder, do you see you're connected."
"Yes"
"Look over your right shoulder, do you see you're connected."
"Yes"
"Now scoot to the edge and hang your feet outside. Ready, set, arch."

Suddenly, airborne, with nothing but the ground rushing towards my face, I'm freefalling from 9,500 feet over green hills, cities, ocean, fastly approaching ground, looking up, flashing the peace sign at the camera man, smiling, the force pushing against my face, fastly approaching ground.

The thoughts: I am falling out of the sky, I just willingly jumped out of a plane, this is amazing, this feeling, this air rushing up at me, the flying, the ocean to the left, the greenery to the right. The fall. The sky. The movement. The feeling. The euphoria. The adrenaline.

Tap, Tap.

Pull the parachute.

Upward jerk. Now floating. Calming. Tranquility. I'm a bird. I've lost my human form. I'm part of the sky and these feelings and this experience. There is no consciousness besides this. This is just me at peace with my being.

Pull to the left. Spin. Hold straight. Float. Pull to the right. Spin.

I'm here. I can't stop smiling. I'm weightless. I'm doing something that defies that standard conventions of human behavior. My God, I just jumped out of a plane! I could stay here forever, balanced, part of something bigger than myself. Breathing in and out and being apart of that breath, part of that air, off the ground, no more restrictions. Just me.

"Okay tuck your knees up."

We slide back to earth. Through the grass. Back on the ground.

"So how did you like it?"

"Let's go again!"

Sunday, April 09, 2006

Untitled Short Stories

I have now started a new blog where I'm going to keep short stories that I now have way too much time on my hands to write. As a disclaimer they probably will have nothing to do with my experiences in South Africa and they may or may not be what my mother considers "appropriate" so enter at your own risk.

www.untitledshortstories.blogspot.com

Saturday, April 08, 2006

Life Plans

My entire life has been planned out since I was 16: go to college, major in education, become a Peace Corp Volunteer, settle down and teach at a low income school. Thus far, every part of my plan has come to pass- but suddenly, being here has made me question what I really want. After going home, finding a school and teaching for 30 years is starting to feel very confining. I lead more of a nomadic existence to get so comfortable in a single area.

Thus, I've been reconsidering my options and frankly it terrifies me because I've never given myself options before.

So the following are my new ideas for the management of my increasingly complicated life:

-Take the GRE. Apply to grad school at Berkley, Columbia, and UCLA to get my master in education and politics or public policy.

-Take the Foreign Service Exam and work in an embassy overseas

-Become a starving traveling writer

-Knit products and bum off my parents while traveling the world (I think my mom would appreciate that scenario)

-Suck it up and be a teacher

-Train the seals at Sea World

It's all very vague right now so please feel free to comment with your opinions and/or ideas.

Friday, April 07, 2006

Feeling Down

I often get the response: "you sound down in your blog" and the truth is I definitely have my ups and downs, and that's okay. It's more or less inevitable in this situation. It would be fatalistic on my own part to be constantly upbeat while experiencing the realities of this experience. On a day to day basis I incur moments and things that I only read about in my former life: neglected and malnourished children, people dying horrific deaths from seemingly preventable diseases, racial tensions and attitudes to such a degree that I am constantly shocked by them and can only compare to the behavior of the Ku Klux Klan in the U.S. All of these aspects compound in my daily life creating a sensibility of downtrodden emotions.

Most of us, as volunteers, ride a roller coaster of emotions. Currently, I'm having lunch in a cafe, yesterday I saw Tsotsi, last night I dressed up and went for cocktails. I had no desire to be anywhere but South Africa, incurring these experiences. Similarly, when I'm playing soccer with the girls or playing boards games with the Khutsos' then I have no regrets about being here. Yet, things aren't always this upbeat. I deal with lackluster schools and mediocre teachers. I see bright, diligent children who will probably never escape the confines of village life because they're afforded so little opportunity. At some point, it becomes overwhelming, sometimes unbearable, and a sense of impending failure manages to drown my idealistic outlook on the state of life.

Peace Corps Medical Staff classifies the majority of volunteers as sufferers of mild depression. It's not that we all want to run home, we're simply all trying to define ourselves in a lifestyle drastically different from anything we have previously experienced. Most of us know why we're here and are committed to those reasons, but occasionally, we do need the allowance of being overwhelmed and being downtrodden for the soul reason of being real.

Thursday, April 06, 2006

Queer Eye

I got this is one of my online groups and found it to be very entertaining. I have been thinking of which of my friends to nominate.

The Emmy-award winning show called "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy" which airs regularly on Bravo is looking for a male RPCV for the show.

The show: Each episode focuses on revamping the wardrobe and home of a 'Straight Guy' with the help of the FAB FIVE, the show's experts in matters of male grooming, style, food, decorating and culture. The show usually builds up to an event and addresses issues that any 'Straight Guy' may need help with like learning to cook a meal for a loved one, or preparing for a major upcoming event such as a wedding or family occasion etc. The show is essentially a "make better" show in that it looks for opportunities to improve a guest's life.

RPCV: The show is seeking to find a Returned Peace Corps volunteer who might like to be considered for the show. He should be between the ages of 25 and 45. Applicants must have long hair (beards are a plus!) to beconsidered. There are many benefits!!! All participants should live within 25 miles of NYC.

CONTACT: Interested people contact Suzette at Bravo directly at sbrown@thequeereye.com -- work number is 212.581.8200 ext. 2829 or 213.804.2656 cell. Call anytime EVEN WEEKENDS. WE NEED TO FIND SOMEONE ASAP! Thanks!

Writing Contest

I had a writing contest for my Grade 7 students. The prompt: If you could go anywhere in the world where would you go? Why?

The first entry is the winner and the second winner is one I found entertaining. I'm typing them exactly as I received them to share with you all:

Israel

I would like to go to Israel.

Since I was born before coming to school I had a biblical knowledge which I got it from the church. There is more that fifty thousands cities and towns around the globe, different countrie with their own political arena, different geographycal shapes with different people.

I can start by qhoting people like Moses, Jesus Christ, King Herodo. They were staying there. Their graves are still there and possible their statues. I would like also to witness those graves and their emigration place. My Gospel singers are continuously singing about Jerusalem. Every chapter of the bible speaks of Jerusalem. I would like to see this historical town. Moutains like Mount Sinai, Mount Herob, places where Moses once passed are there, I would like to see them. The fight between Goliath and David took place there, I would like to see the spot (scene). The graveyard of King Solomon and his 300 wives, King Soul, all these need to be witnessed.

In country with 90% of it being a desert, with large camels in there. I would like to see there. I am strongly sure all Christians who once visited there feel blessed as many people thought that Isreal is in heaven. If I can be given an opportunity to get there, really I will be happy to the fullest.



Hollywood

I would like to go to hollywood because it is the most wounderful place that i had ever seen in my life and is the most dream place i dreamed of. I want to go to hollywood cause there are so many celebrities that most of them are my stars. I like to go there cause i feel like hollywood has got enough money, enough jobs for our mothers, fathers, brothers and sisters. When I'm there i go to school and I finish school i will look for a job.

I would look for a job that pay me enough money, and with the money I will build a house for and house for my family. The job I work, I work for myself and my family. The job i would like to do in hollywood is to be an a actor and I want to marry a black american women and have only two children. I need to go to hollywood because maybe one day I could be come a celebrity and maybe people that know me will say he was poor and now he is rich. I like to go to hollywood cause i would find many friends and maybe they will show me their parents.

Any maybe they will show me where they live. I need to go to hollywood cause maybe I will meet many celebrities and know many director, producer etc: I would like to go to hollywood because is a place i will like to go meet with my whole life, and the best thing is hoolywood will be fantastic. I need my kids to be actors or football players not even like journalist cause journalist sometimes is a liar.

Tuesday, April 04, 2006

Poverty

One of the unique aspects of being a Peace Corp Volunteer in South Africa is the demographic of the country. There is a huge divide in wealth: the city provides a First World experience: movies, coffee shops, malls, arcades, restaurants etc while the village is a stereotypical setting of how Americans picture Africa: malnourished children, lack of infrastructure, mud huts, etc. Perhaps this is what makes being a volunteer here so incredibly difficult. In countries such as Togo or Malawi there are not the temptations experienced here. You can't dissapear into Western culture because you aren't presented with Western culture. Yet, here there is the constant tugging in two directions. On one hand, I can stay in my village and be perfectly content because everyone is living just like me: we all don't have running water, we all have nowhere to go and nothing to do most of the time. I don't get a nagging feeling of missing out on anything because I'm doing the same things as all of the people I live with.

I met a volunteer this week from Togo who is down here for medical reasons, and he was saying that it's nice to be here but it would be hard because in Togo they don't have the options that are available here. Everyone is poor so you don't feel like you're missing out.

Yet, now I'm in Pretoria and it's hard. I detest being stressed about money and it's practically all I think about. Everyone's going to see Brokeback Mountain. Can I afford to see Brokeback Mountain? I would love to have a cup of coffee, but do I really need that cup of coffee or should I save the money? Should we go out to dinner or eat peanut butter and jelly?

I see people my age going out and being young, and I'm incredibly jealous. I miss being able to do that: to go out with friends and have dinner together or to go book shopping. I keep seeing cute household stuff and it makes me desperately want to have my own apartment and freedom to live the life I was before: to come and go when I please, to transport myself, to do things without asking permission. I know I am being shallow, and I struggle with that too. I look at girls my age wearing cute clothes and I want to be them: laughing, without the stress, without the worries but then I think: all Khutso gets to eat half the time is bread or there are children living in crumbling shacks in my village, and I feel so bad about myself and my desire to conform to a Western materialistic lifestyle.

I'm used to living on the Peace Corp Budget but suddenly expenses are cropping up. Winter is setting in and I had to buy new jeans and a sweatshirt, which I wouldn't have thought twice about in the U.S., but when I'm living on 200 dollars a month for all my needs: food, toiletries, electricity, transportation, internet, mail, etc it leaves me very tight and in a constant state of angst regarding money.

Next week I'm going to Durban for the first real vacation I've had since being here, and I keep questioning whether it is something I can really afford to do and that drives me crazy that I'm reacting this way. I really need to take a vacation for sanity reasons and after 8 months of being in a village it shouldn't be so unobtainable, but still I feel guilty because I know I don't have enough money and there's no way for me to earn any.

So I sit here in a state of confusion: Am I a bad person for wanting things? for going places while I know the poverty the people I work with are living in? for desperately missing the life I once lead? Am I forgetting why I came here? What kind of person am I becoming: jealous and stressed or accepting and helping?

I still have a lot of soul searching to do.